Let's start at
the beginning:
HVAC stands for Heating, Ventilating and Air Conditioning and are
the initials often used to describe the industry that produces the
equipment that brings comfort to your home.

AFUE - This is a percentage measurement of a furnace's heating
efficiency. The U.S. Government's minimum efficiency level is 78%.
The higher the AFUE, the more efficient the furnace. The initials
stand for Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency.
Energy Star - A voluntary partnership between the U.S. Department
of Energy, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, product manufacturers,
local utilities and retailers. Partners help promote energy-efficient
products by labeling products with the Energy Star logo and educating
consumers about the unique benefits of energy-efficient products.
In addition to labeled products, Energy Star offers voluntary partnerships
which promote energy efficiency, reduce air pollution, and save money
for businesses large and small. Each year, these partnerships save
over $1 billion in energy costs while also cutting air pollution.
When properly installed, Energy Star-labeled products can save consumers
10-40% on heating and cooling bills each year.
SEER
- This is a measurement of the efficiency of cooling products. The
U.S. Government's minimum efficiency level is 10 SEER for split
systems and 9.7 for packaged units. The higher the SEER, the more
efficient the cooling product. SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency
Ratio.
HSPF
- This is a measurement of a heat pump's heating efficiency. There
is no governmental minimum rating. The higher the HSPF, the more
efficient the heat pump's heating performance. HSPF stands for Heating
Seasonal Performance Factor.
A Note About
Efficiencies: When you're getting ready to replace an older
heating or cooling system, it's very important for you to get a
Load Calculation done by your dealer/contractor. The greater the
difference between the efficiency of your old system to the new
system, the more likelihood that the dealer will recommend a smaller
sized unit. This should not cause alarm, as the dealer, by running
a Load Calculation, will be able to accurately size the system to
the load in your home. It can be quite detrimental to equipment
if the units are too large for the load in your home - they can
start to "short cycle" (they run often but for very short
periods of time, because they are pumping out too much heat/cooling
and reach the thermostat's setting too quickly), which can shorten
the life of the unit dramatically.

BTU - British Thermal Unit. This is the amount of heat required
to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit.
You'll see this measurement when you look at heating and cooling
capacities - for example, your dealer may recommend a 75,000 Btu
furnace and a 24,000 Btu air conditioner for your home.
A Note About
Capacities: Gas furnaces are generally rated by "input"
in Btu's per hour (Btuh). A furnace rated at 100,000 Btuh that is
80% efficient (80% AFUE) will have an output of 80,000 Btuh. In
other words, 80% of the total heat produced by burning the gas will
be in the form of usable heat to warm your home. The other 20% is
exhausted from your house along with the flue products.
By the same
token, a 100,000 Btuh furnace that is 90% efficient only sends 10%
of the total heat out the chimney - thus burning less gas to get
the same results and reducing your gas heating costs.
GPH -
Gallons Per Hour. You might see this rating if you are looking at
an oil furnace. In addition to input and output, an oil furnace
also has a rating of gallons per hour, the volume of oil a furnace
is capable of burning in 60 minutes.
A Note About
Oil Furnaces: Many oil furnaces are dual rated. That is, they
are listed with two different heating capacities. For example, your
oil furnace might be rated as:
| Input
140,000 Btuh |
Input
154,000 Btuh |
| Output
113,000 Btuh |
Output
125,000 Btuh |
| .85
gph |
1.00
gph |
This means
that at the lower rating, the furnace is capable of producing
113,000 Btu's of usable heat per hour to heat your home. And,
if it ran constantly for one hour, it would consume .85 gallons
of oil. If, however, your dealer sets up your oil furnace to operate
at the higher rating, it would produce 125,000 Btu's of usable
heat per hour, and use 1.00 gallons of oil. Whether your oil furnace
is set up by your dealer to operate at the higher or lower rating
depends on that all important Load Calculation. By properly sizing
the furnace to your home, you will be assured of maximum comfort,
energy savings and extended equipment life.
COP
- Coefficient Of Performance. A ratio that compares a heat pump
system's heating efficiency to that of electric resistance heat.
For example, a heat pump system with a COP of 3.0 provides heat
at 3 times the efficiency of electric resistance heat. A heat
pump's system COP will decrease as outdoor temperatures drop,
eventually providing little or no efficiency advantage over electric
resistance heat - and that's when your auxiliary heat strips start
to heat your home.
Ton
- You'll often see this as a measurement of the capacity of an
air conditioning system. Don't panic, it doesn't measure weight!
Just like gas and oil furnaces, air conditioners and heat pumps
are rated in Btu's. One ton of air conditioning is 12,000 Btu's
per hour. This means that a "one ton" air conditioning
system has the capability of removing 12,000 Btu's of heat per
hour fr om your home.
A Note
About Air Conditioning: You've heard the saying "It's
not the heat, it's the humidity." Air conditioning systems
do more that just cool your home - they remove moisture. The more
humid it is outside, the harder an air conditioner has to work.
But does that mean that if you get a bigger unit, it will work
better? NO. An air conditioning system that is too large will
neither cool nor dehumidify properly, and the result will be an
uncomfortable, clammy home.
Ambient
Temperature - this is the air temperature (usually the outdoor
air temperature) surrounding the equipment.

Split System - This describes an air conditioning or heat
pump system that is split into two sections - an outdoor section
and an indoor section. It won't work without the outdoor section
plus an indoor section to move the air.
Condensing
Unit - This is the outdoor section of a split system air conditioning
system. You'll know it best as the air conditioner that sits outside
your home.
Air Handler
- This is the indoor section of a split system. It can be
a dedicated air handler, or could be your furnace. Also known
as a fan-coil.
Indoor/Evaporator
Coil - If your furnace is the air handler section of your
split system, then you'll need an indoor coil added to your furnace
to complete the system. The coil transfers heat to give you cool
air and also aids in dehumidification.
Heat Pump
- A unit that both cools and heats your home. A heat pump system
can be either a split system or a packaged system. A heat pump
can be used in conjunction with a gas/oil/LP furnace (using the
furnace instead of electric resistance heat when temperatures
fall below about 35 F) with the addition of a fossil fuel kit.
Packaged
System - Packaged units provide both heating and cooling from
one unit that is placed outside the home - on the ground, on the
roof, or sometimes mounted through the walls of the building.
Packaged units come in several combinations of fuel sources -
gas heat/electric cooling; heat pump; electric heat/electric cooling;
oil heat/electric cooling.
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